Looking for advice as I can't wait 3-4 weeks to get into a certified repair shop and miss all of the May fishing!!! Purchased my boat this Spring from the original owner and took down to lake of the ozarks for first time a three weeks ago. Ran great for the first hour or so. After fishing an area for 45 min or so with trolling motor I went to start the outboard and would not run. Once I did finally get started, it would idle for a bit and then die. Pumped the bulb up and trimmed the motor up and down and could get to run for just a bit and then die again. Changed the fuel filter and pumped the bulb while it was off and fuel goes through there. Had a guy I know check it out and he found that fuel line had a somewhat loose connection thinking it may have air in the line and thought that made sense and I was good to go. Took to the lake this weekend and the problem repeated immediately after I got in the water. It started right up and idled and acted like it was going to be good for about 30 seconds and then acted up. I did find that once I could get it running, I could pump up the primer bulb as it was running and hear the engine rev up a bit as I was pumping and then would run a bit longer before finally dying again. Very frustrated after attempting two fishing trips with engine not running. I downloaded a service manual for the engine yesterday also and found out there are diagnostic LED's. I got to this point late last night and did not get to go much further but I did turn on the key and check the LED's. Found that LED #1 does not light up at all when the key is turned on like it should. Per the manual, it says "LED 1 - CHARGING OK - Stator signal 30 V or higher. For NO LIGHT, check for: SAC circuit problem". Based on what I read, it could be the stator, capacitor, or EMM. This really stinks because if one of these dealers could at least plug the thing in and get the code it would at least tell me what the exact problem is. I'm going to test the voltage on these components tonight and hopefully it is something that I can fix. One other post I found out there was that someone had similar problems and ended up being a water pressure transducer that they unplugged and then all ran good again. I would be happy to drop off at a dealer, but everyone within a couple hundred miles of me says they are 3-4 weeks before they can even look at it!!! I just think that is insane and I need to figure out myself. Any help is appreciated.
update to what I posted.
I'm no boat mechanic, but if following most of this I hate to say it but seems like a bad EMM ... Any type of feedback would be appreciated.
05-09-2017 10:20 - edited 05-09-2017 10:39
A trained tech with a laptop and the diagnostic software should be the one to confirm if an EMM actually needs replacement.
You are doing the right procedures with the testing on your own, but due to the expense of replacing the EMM, it is worth having the diagnosis of a trained professional. Installation is fairly easy, but again a tech should be consulted to load the engine data into the new EMM, test all the outputs and confirm the injector locations and coefficients. In addition the professional has to check the timing pointer calibration before running the motor then verifying the timing offset adjustment.
There are other items such as a rusted or stuck electric fuel pump that will give the same symptoms as well as components drawing more amperage than they were designed for.
I don't disagree, I just find it very frustrating that they have such a limited amount of Evinrude repair shops around. I live in Missouri and called every one of them within a couple hundred miles of me and they all say the same thing. Minimum of 3 + weeks before they can even look at it and diagnose the issue. I did order a high pressure fuel pump that I was thinking about sending back but maybe I'll go ahead and swap that out anyway and get lucky. I guess you are saying that a new EMM does not come out of the box ready to go even if you order specified part number for my engine?
Sorry to say but these are not your grandfather's Evinrudes. Because these have the lowest total emissions of all outboards, including 4-strokes, they are high-tech and computer-controlled. No longer can they be maintained or repaired with a hammer, screwdriver, and an adjustable wrench.
The EMM is much higher tech and has more computing power than an ordinary bolt-on ECU used in other motors. An EMM requires setup, data transfer, and timing verification by a trained tech and Evinrude diagnostic software.
I understand, but it sure puts a bad taste in my mouth if there are only a small handful of Evinrude dealers who can work on it and they all say it is 4 weeks before they can even look at it. At least with a car a snap on code reader can diagnose most any vehicle and these outboard companies having things so proprietary really puts the end user in a bad spot. Not enough options out there to have it fixed.
It is not only the marine industry with proprietary electronics, the car business is getting that way and the factories want to limit the flow of specific information. Automobiles have not only the universal OBD II scanners, but the different car makers have their own proprietary codes and information in addition to OBD II. My understanding that the appliance industry is becoming similar.
To find other Evinrude dealers, try http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/find-a-dealer.html