I bought my new motor attached to my brand new tritoon on 07/24/2016. I was only able to put about 20 hours on it before the end of the season, I took it in had it winterized and wrapped and took it back in (to the dealer) to have it opened up and tested. Took it to the dock to drive it to my slip once I got it back, first time out this year, started it up, I had to back quite far out of the launching dock due to the traffic and I need room to turn around a 24' tritoon with a motor sticking out the back. I turned it around and went slow until I was well away from the traffic, I tried to open it up at that point, she sputtered some and died. I tried to turn it over twice but it just cranked but would not start, I went back and primed the bulb, it started up with a miss to it. I limped it along for a bit, tried to open it up again and again it sputtered and died. This continued to happen with it getting worse and worse as I went on, eventually my nephew sat right by the motor pumping the bulb just to keep it going (I know, I know probably fouled out the plugs). Made it 3/4 of the way to my slip, it stalled and would not start again. Had to call my husband and he came out with a friend to tow me in. Now I have owned tons of boats and motors, this is my first brand new purchase and also the first time EVER that I had to be towed....smh....humiliating. Now I just got rid of a 1964, with I have no idea how many hours let's just say a lot, that ran better than my new motor is running now. Once it sits it will start with the miss to it, I tried it once it was in it's slip (that was great by the way plunging up to my waist in the really chilly water to maneuver it, on the plus side I eventually went numb) and again it started with the miss. I puched the fast idle button and gradually incresed the idle, it sputtered and died and would not start again without a lot of work. I went back the next day and nothing changed, it started right up after sitting with a miss then would sputter and die if the idle was raised and not want to start again. Now I have 20 hours on a motor that I have followed everything the manual has said to a T for operating, fuel, maintenance, etc. so far, I paid professinal, certified Evinrude technicians to winterize and open it back up again, and I had to be towed.... I called the dealer to come to my slip and fix the pile of crap motor sitting on the back of my $50,000 boat, the dealer told me that Evinrude's "warranty" does not cover dockside serice????? I have to pay $135 for them to come out and diagnose it or I have to have my boat towed back to the lauch, jump in that beautiful cold water again and load up my boat to take it to them....WTF. You see the problem that I have with this is, how much is my BRAND NEW motor going to cost me so I can get it fixed under "warranty"? How much time out of my EXTREMELY short Michigan boating season is my boat going to be in for repairs, it's not looking good so far at only 20 hours in. Now the technicians already had to look up how to pump the oil from the reservoir under the seat to the one under my hood, they had no idea how it worked. I could have done that myself, what exactly does this certification consist of??? Hopefully I don't know more about boat motors than they do, I've already narrowed the problem down to 3 possibilities. Time will only tell, but I can say that I am not happy with Evinrude at all at this point. And I can also say that the brand new twin engine boat that my husband is looking into will not likely have Evinrude on the back.
We are sorry to hear about your experience with an Evinrude outboard motor.
Winterizing is a very critical procedure and everything has to be done correctly to eliminate problems during the following boating season.
Your description sounds like a fuel problem, but a trained technician is needed to determine what is the cause and what is needed to correct it. A common problem during the first run of the year is the leftover E-10 fuel that phase-separates which allows the alcohol and moisture to combine and settle in the bottom of the fuel tank to be drawn up in the motor when it is started in the spring. Any engine will run poorly on that mixture if that is what happened. I am not saying that it is the cause of your problems, but it is very common throughout the country every spring.
Your Evinrude warranty, as does every other outboard company, specifies that the engine be delivered to the dealer for warranty assistance. It is customary that an owner would pay for a dock call and travel time if the boat is not delivered to the dealer. If warranty, the parts and labor for the repair are at no cost to the owner. Talk to your dealer's general manager or owner to see you can work something out as you bought the boat during the previous season.
First and foremost, as I said, I sent the boat to the dealer and your "certified mechanics" to be winterized and opened for the season, I did nothing, it ran great at the end of the season. I paid $131 yesterday for them to come dockside and tell me that your fuel pump went out and it has to be pulled off the water and taken to them to be fixed. I run the correct octane fuel and sent it to them to winterize and open up and test for the season. A fuel pump went out after 20 hours of use????
So this means I had to pay and now inconveinance myself completely either due to your junk fuel pump or because your "certified mechanics" did not winterize it properly. The person I would prefer and the only one I have ever let touch my boats is Evinrude certified, but he is not a dealer and therefore cannot do any warranty work. I took it to be winterized by the people you recommend on your dealer page because I thought that would be better, I am going to request said fuel pump and inspect it myself and I am going to insist a full diagnostic be done if it is possible to determine the reason for the failure. My repair person has never left me dead on the water, I would rather pay someone else than deal with this again. As soon as I find out specifically what happend to cause this I intend to expose the problem on social media so others are not left dead on the water as well. I should have to pay nothing for this happening to me, I did nothing and the motor is virtually brand new, towing a boat is not like a car, I cannot call a tow comapany to just come and tow it, we have nothing like that here, we have to rely on other boaters. The motor is the only way to move the boat otherwise, a warranty that does not cover dockside, especially within the first however many hours, is ridiculous specifically when it is found that the owner did nothing to cause the problem.
I'm not allowed to touch it per the warranty guidelines, I could easily fix it myself, but I do not want to void the warranty. If something major happens to it later on, and it's not looking good so far, I am not eating the cost of it.
If your engine is in the warranty period, you should not have to pay for the pump or the labor to install it. You may have to pay for the service call if it is not brought to the dealer as explained in the warranty statement.
Usually in the spring when the boat is first fired up and an electric fuel pump is inoperative, very often it is due to rust or corrosion. It is that way with any brand of outboard that uses electric fuel pumps as they contain precision steel parts for the rotor.
Ask your dealer to inspect what they can for any signs of moisture, debris, or rust inside the fuel system. Being a warranty part they have to keep it intact for 90 days in case the manufacturer wants it returned for inspection or to send back to the supplier.
We are sorry for your inconvenience and experience due to the pump malfunction. We are confident that your dealer can get it repaired and you back on the water shortly. If you have any problems getting it fixed or running correctly please email the serial number with your contact information to firstname.lastname@example.org .