09-03-2015 09:28 - edited 09-06-2015 01:00
New to the forum and wanted to post some issues I have had with my 2015 300HP G2.
I have around 20 hours on it and came to the coast this week to do some offshore fishing. Rented a house right on the water with a dock so I could get up, get in the boat and go. Problems started 20 minutes after I got the boat off the trailer. As I made my turn to put the boat at the dock, I began to trim the motor up some since I did not know the depth at the dock. Next thing I hear are alarms going off. Several faults are blinking on the screen, I can't remember them all but Engine fault and fuel pump fault were two that I remember well... Anyway, finally limp it to the dock and get it tied up and then shut the motor off. I then try to restart and I have a "Waiting for neutral fault" Code 36 on my Icon gauge. I check and double check and know that I am indeed in Neutral. I text my service manager and as I'm waiting, I unhook the motor from power, wait, hook it back up and, waiting for neutral comes on. I get a reply from my service mgr and he has me check a few things and calls BRP for some assistance. BRP finally calls back and gives him the number for the nearest evinrude dealer, Tideline Marine in Jacksonville, NC and I call... I tell the guy (Bill) what's going on and he tells me to check all my connections. In the time it took for me to get ahold of anyone I now have 4 more error codes... Main Ground Disconnected (code 33), EMM0 Communications Lost (Code21), EMM0, NEMA bus heart beat locat (Code 20), EMM0 Private bus heart beat lost. After telling me to check all the connections I asked what would happen if that didn't work, Bill tells me he's too busy with his customers to help me, he may be able to look at it in a week or so but "Good Luck". I then ask how I am supposed to get it up on the trailer if I cannot trim the motor up since it would be dragging the ground and he tells me to pull out the trim switch and short it out to get it to go up. I thank him for his complete lack of help and am now seriously regretting my purchase.
So now that I know I'm on my own I start taking the dash apart, the side mount, the NMEA network trying to find something that isn't connected or shorted out... I eventually take the top and front panel off the motor and the ground wire hooked to the motor isn't connected, the wire is pulled out of the crimp, since I dont have a pair of crimpers that will work, I use some solder and a torch that I had to buy and am able to get it soldered on. I get everything back together and now my motor trims and starts and appears to be working. So I'm thinking it's fixed and I'm good to go! Not the case...
So the next day comes and I get in the boat in the morning to test drive it to see if everything is ok... It starts right up and I'm on my way, although it doesn't seem to have the power it did... I go about 2 miles and start to head toward the inlet when alarms start going off again. I wasn't able to take pics of the codes cause I'm in the inlet and now my motor is shutting down and no way to trim the motor up... Excessive knock error and another engine error, but not sure exactly what it was because I am now without power and heading toward a sand bar. After the sand bar stopped my forward movement I am now stuck, so again I take off the top and front panel to check the ground and it is solid. I try starting the motor and nothing happens. I get a neutral code error again and I then disconnect eveything from the battery. Once I hook it back up I am able to start the motor but alas, the tide has been going out and what was slightly stuck is fully stuck, I try using the motor to nudge me backward but it seems to have no power, then I get more error codes about the motor and it shuts down again. A passing boater comes to my aide and we are able to push it backward off the sandbar and into deeper water. I get the motor started and limp it back to the dock.
The next day I get it started and want to take it up and down the waterway to see if it'll work. I'm at 4400 rpm and going 12 mph, there isn't enough power to get the boat on plane. I eventually play with the trim and can get it up to 25mph but it takes a very long time and constant messing with the throttle and trim. But if I slow down it comes off plane and I have to play around with the trim to get it going again. So now my week is ruined and I have a boat I cannot use and friends and family that were coming to go out fishing, cannot.
My buddy is making a video G2 Video of this whole episode and will post it on YouTube so you can see the problems I have had. Several things really bother me about this whole experience. First my trip was ruined and I've bascially wasted $1500 on renting this beach house because I am so pissed about the motor issues. Secondly the idiot at Tideline Marine who basically told me that since I wasn't his customer, "Good Luck" with the problems with the "motor of the future". And third, I spent $25,000+ on a motor that was supposed to give me piece of mind to go offshore with my friends and family... if this crap would have happened 60-70 miles offshore, we would have been screwed. I don't blame my dealer or installer for the ground wire coming apart but hope they will check connections in the future. I'm cutting my trip short early to take the boat back to see if they can fix it, hopefully it'll have enough power to get to the dock and on the trailer.
Before this week I was happy with the new motor, told anyone and everyone how happy I was with it... Now, not so much.
Had a quick look at your video and the first thing that I noticed was the battery lead IS NOT a genuine battery lead but a home made lead so i wonder what else was hobbled together and why not post some pictures of the wiring of the dash to make sure this has been done correctly becasue I bet it has not. the warnings all relate to how the engine is wired in the public and private network so I sure hope the engine is being seen as a devise by the network. Post some pictures. Also if the Garmin is linked to the backbone try and remove that to see if that helps.
Maybe you should change the topic to why NOT to buy an engine from the dealer you did because rigging of these modern engines is not for the untrained.
Not like that and that is why I said what I posted, if it looked like and WAS the genuine one I doubt it would of failed and I would not of replied. The +ve one would be interesting to see especially considering the genuine battery leads have a hard wired network power cable professionally connected to them to power up the network and if as I am 99.9% certain these are not genuine ones I wounder if the network is powered correctly either-would explain alot of the codes you saw on the screen.
09-10-2015 01:25 - edited 09-12-2015 01:17
What does a genuine Evinrude cable look like?
Genuine Evinrude battery cables for the G2 E-TEC outboards are "siamesed" together and have shrink tube sealing the cable ends to the terminals.
Factory cable kit installed on an Evinrude G2 E-TEC. There is a black striped area on the red positive lead including a "line" from where the cables were siamesed together, lables are taped to them, and a red protective boot is on the positive lead. About the last 12" on either end are not siamesed togetheer to allow for attaching to engine and to battery or battery switch.
I'll have to check to make sure when I get the boat back, but I know that they do have a connector that goes to the control head because that was one of the connections I checked when I was taking everything apart to troubleshoot the problems. As far as them being '"siamesed" together and have shrink tube sealing the cable ends to the terminals" they do have shrink tubes which you can see in the photo, I took the front panel off to access the terminals and didn't notice if they were "siamesed" when they came out of the rigging tube into the boat, but I will indeed check.
I also know that the cables were new, but I don't know if they were Evinrude P/N 587205 Battery Cable, 10', 4 gauge or if they used another make of cables with Evinrude P/N 766596 Adapter "Y" Harness - use with non-factory battery cables for control head battery power. As I said, once I get it back I'll check.
I can guarentee that -ve lead is not part of the genuine battery lead P/N 587205 and yes good idea to check and post a picture of the +ve lead because my money would be on no red stripe on the +ve lead like the picture Bill posted or the fact that the network power is also generated by the above correct battery leads. Why not jsut ask the rigger if they used P/N 587205 and see what he says becasue that would be interesting if they claimed they used 587205.