I hope someone can give me some advise, besides using the motor for a mooring. I bought a 1977 Mako with this 200 Ficht with 360 hrs on it from a friend ( at lest I thought he was a friend ) it ran flawlessly for two month, then out trolling in choppy seas the buzzer and check engine light came on and the motor shut down. Tried to restart it it would fire and start for 3 to 4 seconds and shut down, it would stay running at a very high RPM ( 3/4 throttle but sounded out of timing, had to get towed in by the wonderful Smithspoint Rescue out of Lottsburg va. I changed both filters one on the transom that has a clear water separator and the on on the motor both had a little water in them, replaced the lift pump and fuel line from the tank, still would not stay running. Pulled the boat and trailered it back to PA, Checked the CPS for ohms and had 385 supposed to be 1000 to 1200 replaced with a new one no help same problem, I went thruogh every ground wire and pulled every connector apart checked added dielectric grease, Replace all plugs with QC10WEP as per the revision and what was in the motor when I bought it indexed them as per the manual. Bought the software and harness to check for codes no codes, It did say that the EMM temp was one point 183 dig. checked Fuel pressure 30lb, checked for spark and that the injectors were firing all seems good. I did notice that I'm only getting a dribble of water out of the back of the motor when running it at 3/4 throttle, I plan on checking the compression and If good, pull the EMM and Injector pump and flush them out and change the water pump. Any help would be appreciated.
I had the same engine many moons ago. After the 4th powerhead replacement and again a failure the insurance company that handled the extended warranty gave me $ 5000.00 for not having to fix it again. Worse engine ever created.
I have the exact same engine with about 1300 hours. I like the motor, it's easy on gas and is powerful. Have you checked the code(s) stored in the computer? You don't need the software or the computer to do it but it is a lot easier if you have it and it's also handy for a lot of other things. It's available on ebay for less than $100 and includes a hard to follow shop manual that covers a lot of engines. I bought the factory manual also but I don't think the factory manual has the manual code retrieval procedure in it. Here's the procedure:
4. For20012251250hpV6motors,disconnectthestarboardthrottlelink from the throttle cam, then manually move the throttle cam to its fullest limit of travel simulatingWide-Open-Throttle(WOT). Moving the throttle cam in this manner manually moves the TP sensor to the WOT position.
DO NOT attempt to use the boat's remote control to activate the throttle cam or throttle position sensor, as damage could occur to the shift system if this is done without the motor running. InTHEORY, you could have an assistant spin the propeller shaft by hand while gently moving the remote handle into the WOT position. But, if binding seems to occur, don't force the remote and BE SURE to remove the propeller first (we just don't like the idea of an assistant anywhere near the propeller during this procedure).
5. For75-175hpV4andV6motors,unboltandremovetheThrottle Position (TP) sensor from the flywheel cover. Manually move the TP sensor to the fullest limit of high-end travel in order to simulate WOT operation.
6. On ALL motors, use a rubber band, clip or piece of wire to hold the throttle cam or the TP sensor in the WOT position.
7. Turn the ignition switch to on in order to power up the EMM (the switch must remain on throughout the test with the emergency stop clip (if used) in position. Wait at least 10 seconds and watch for the codes to display on the Check Engine light.
If theTP sensor or throttle cam is moved from the maximum limit before 10 seconds have passed, the EMM will NOT go into diagnostic mode and you'll have to start over from the beginning.
8. AnytroublecodespresentwillbeginflashingontheCheckEngine LED. Count the flashing to determine the code(s).If more than one is present, each code will flash until all stored codes have displayed, then there will be long pause (several seconds), during which the Check Engine light will remain lit, After the pause, the codes will loop and being displaying again.This will continue until you exit the diagnostic mode or erase the trouble codes.
Interpret codes by counting the flashes.There will be a short pause between digits of the 2-digit code. A longer pause indicates the start of a different number.
1. Enter diagnostic mode and allow the codes to begin displaying.For details, please refer to Reading Codes, in this section.
2. Whileindiagnosticmove,returntheTPsensororthethrottlecamto the low-end limit of its travel, simulating idle operation. The Check Engine light should come on and remain lit, wait 5 seconds or more, then move the sensor or cam again to the WOT throttle position (the Check Engine light should extinguish).Return the sensor or throttle cam AGAIN to the idle position (the Check Engine light should come on again). Repeat this step 4 more times, cycling the sensor or cam completely from stop-to-stop (from WOT to IDLE) and waiting at least 5 seconds at idle each time.
3, After returning the sensor or throttle cam to the low-end limit for the 5thtime,theCheckEnginelightshouldremainonuntilthesensoris reattached to the engine or the throttle link is reattached. At that time, the light should go OUT if there are no hard codes present. If there are hard codes, the light will turn back on (but keep in mind that some hard codes will not show until the motor is run again).
4, Turn the ignition keyswitch off, erasing all service codes.
The manual codes erase procedure CANNOT be performed using the remote control handle as it will NOT move the sensor through its full range of travel.