So the starter works terrific now. I had a persistant problem with the 3 light salute and aquired a used, rebuilt (by DFI) and installed it two weeks ago after replacing all three in-harness diodes, the power realy, start delay relay (and broken socket), starter solenoid/relay, ignition switch, most of the trim/tilt relays, two PDP ignition/injector related relays, air, water temp. sensors, & shift interrupt switch. Phew, what a list, and there's probably some items I forgot to list. By the way, the PDP when I disassembled to verify the diodes and the MOV resistor state, I seem to have found what may be a hairline crack in the PCB conductive coating which may have actually have caused all the preceeding troubles, the jury's still out! The good news is that I ran her two weekends in a row without a fault since all the repairs and improvements have been completed.
My question is how to get the data out of my old EMM due to the tree light issue and inability to power it on. I ownd the EV4 software but it seems rather lame without the Bossweb connection to do much of anything. Is there a way around these issues?
Here are some photos of the PDP PCB and hairline supected crack in the main poser (keep alive?) circuit to the EMM . The first photo shows the hairline crack adjacent to the varistor/MOV marked X030, I'm pretty sure it's easily fixed by soldering ajumper accross the nearby solder pins on the board. The second photo shows the schematic (which seems relatively inaccurate interestingly enough) of the MOV which is drawn as a resistor symbol with a bird wing-like line through it, and all the other on-board diodes. The diodes and MOV check out. I examined all of the solder joints with a magnifying glass and seem AOK. I did'nt notice the fracture line until afterwards by zooming in with my IPhone 6 HD screen, you can see it pretty clearly yourself, but perhaps it's just dirt or a thread, it just seems way to coincidental that she ran like abird once I reassembled the PDP, perhaps the jostling temporarily made the connection once again? Perhaps it's worthwile to disassemble it and recheck/add the jumper to repair it?
I surely see no value in purchasing a new PDP.