02-10-2020 12:10 - edited 02-10-2020 03:46
Replaced EMM unit in 2004. Called DFI, very good to talk with. Took engine to 4 mechanics, all told me to dump the engine, as the Evinrude FICHT engines are trash. Up until 2019 the engine ran perfect. When I put the boat in this fall, after running it on the trailer with muffs for 4 years, the boat ran good at idle. After I brought it up to speed, the motor sputtered. I put it in neutral and revved it up. After a second the motor ran very high (RPM) jumped to 4500 and I turned to shut the engine down. I could not get it restarted. Engine would not fire at all, like the kill switch wasn't connected. I took the boat to 4 mechanics. I was told the this engine was crap. No parts can be found. The DFI guy discussed the EMM issue with me and sounded knowledgeable about the problem, and said most likely it was a "code 57" issue. The engine EMM detected a very high RPM range and shut down. I was told by the last mechanic that pulled the code, that "IF" I had the EMM reset ($900) that if the issue was fuel related, there are NO parts out there to buy since the Evinrude bankruptcy caused the company to stop parts manufacturing on that engine. I can get DFI to reset/rebuild the EMM, but once that $900+ is gone I might be left in the same shape with no running engine, I am told. Does that sound right? The last mechanic also mentioned that with the labor to rebuild the EMM i would be looking at a cost of about $2500 + to get the fuel system cleaned out (it does have bad fuel in the tank) and IF there are some parts that can't be bought for the fuel system, I would owe the repairs and get the bad engine back. There reply was to dump the engine and repower - about $19,000 for a new Yamaha 200.
Any idea if fuel system parts are hard to buy for this 2001, 200HP engine? Any idea if the mechanics are accurate in their description of how bad this motor really is? (EMM units going bad every 5-8 years?) The guy at DFI actually seemed surprised that the rebuilt EMM unit lasted this long. I certainly would pay to have the motor rebuilt if I could get another 5-7 years. Seems that the issue is parts availability - IF I can believe that code 57, and the fuel system issues are my main cause for the need to repair? Anyone had these issues, or can anyone suggest that I dump the problems and repower?
*** one question - I read that you can turn the switch on and if you get the LED lights 1-4 to toggle on, you can count the blinks with pauses meaning double digit numbers to actually get a diagnostic code to help trouble shoot an issue. Is that correct?
I had my Emm and fuse box reworked May 2018 cost was $650. DFI didnt do it but a fellow up in Tennesee. google him and he was a web page. I had a mishap but my engine will idle on the muffs ready for a water test. I have the 2001 225 Ram E225FHLSIF.
04-17-2020 07:37 - edited 04-17-2020 07:38
Code 57 is for safety. It prevents engine runaway should the fuel pump diaphragm rupture and allow unregulated gasoline into the crankcase. It also prevents runaway should an operator rev up the engine too high either in neutral or without a load on the prop, then rapidly close the throttle . The EMM senses the elevated rpm and the closed throttle, indicating that something is amiss and shuts the motor down. Only a tech with diagnostic software can clear the code and inspect the motor for any abnormalities. An indication of code 57 is a flashing CHECK ENGINE light when the key is turned on.
Some of the companies that made FICHT parts are no longer in business and that is why a few of the items are no longer available. Some dealers still have FICHT parts in stock and/or have used engines from which to sell parts.
"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat";
-- Travis McGee, main character in a book series by John D. McDonald
The factory recommends that a properly trained technician service your Johnson or Evinrude outboard motor. Should you elect to perform repairs yourself, use caution, common sense, and observe safety procedures in the vicinity of flammable liquids, around moving parts, near high-temperature components, and working with electrical or ignition systems.
The information offered here is only general in nature and should not be construed as complete factory approved procedures, techniques, or specifications. Always use the proper service manual for your motor, up-to-date service literature, the correct tools, and have an understanding of how to proceed with troubleshooting and repair methods. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with a procedure, a situation, or a technique, enlist the services of a factory trained technician.