Hi, my first post here is about flushing. I have read through a lot of earlier threads about this subject, but really can't find any that answering my questions about this subject. Sorry if I missed any thread where it is.
I have just got my brand new boat and a brand new e-tec 60. I plan to keep it for a long time and will maintain it properly, which includes flushing after use, and here starts my wondering.
The motor will run in salt water, and to flush i properly, I would prefer to flush it with the motor tilted a bit up so the water inlet ports are out of water. The manual says several things, first it says that it should be vertical, but it also says if that is not possible, never put the gearcase above the powerhead, which I have no problem understanding. And that is what I think this is all about, as long as the water in the exaust line is below the power head, and if you also keep water away from the upper exhaust outlet above the flushing port, it will be fine flushing the motor tilted up and out of the water (temperature above freezing point). I assume the only way water can come into the cylinders are through the exhaust.
Please tell me if my thoughts are correct or wrong, have I missed something here?
For proper flushing, I prefer using mufflers, but for a quick solution I will be using the flushing port. My other questions is about the flushing port nipple. I have replaced the flushing port nipple (the black plastic with a hex on the outside) with a hose garden quick connector. This quick connector also come with a rubber seal which fit nice inside at the bottom of the external threads, and it all seems good and sealed. The quick connector seems to have a bit larger ID than the small hole on the OEM nipple, is it still OK to leave it there permanent, or does the OEM nipple work as a restrictor?
See attached photos of the OEM nipple and the one I picked of my hose garde three way valve.
You will loose too much water pressure inside the engine if you use a larger diameter outlet such as that hardware-store quick disconnect fitting.
What engine model number ?
Do not flush your motor above the maximum trim (not tilt) position with the boat level. Spray that is used in the exhaust system could migrate or splash up into the exhaust ports making your motor rust up or hydrolock when cranked over. Either situation is expensive, time consuming, and aggravating.
"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat";
-- Travis McGee, main character in a book series by John D. McDonald
The factory recommends that a properly trained technician service your Johnson or Evinrude outboard motor. Should you elect to perform repairs yourself, use caution, common sense, and observe safety procedures in the vicinity of flammable liquids, around moving parts, near high-temperature components, and working with electrical or ignition systems.
The information offered here is only general in nature and should not be construed as complete factory approved procedures, techniques, or specifications. Always use the proper service manual for your motor, up-to-date service literature, the correct tools, and have an understanding of how to proceed with troubleshooting and repair methods. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with a procedure, a situation, or a technique, enlist the services of a factory trained technician.
04-15-2020 06:57 - edited 04-15-2020 07:39
engine model number is: E60DSLAGH
I also took a closer look at my quick connector threads, they seemed to fit well, but it is not the correct thread specification on my nipple. What is the exact specification of the threads? I guess I will have to look for some adapter.
Edit: I also see from the parts catalog that the oem nipple is actually called a "restrictor", which means you will need that in place and connecting a hose here is just a PITA. An alternative is to get an nipple which can be modified to have the same ID. Might look into that.
The flushing port at the back works well, don't know the thread size but it is easy to find, that point basically reverses the water flow, it goes from there into the vapor seperator, then through the computer then back into the block.
The cable ties on the hoses could potentially blow off if you have too much hose pressure... but better to see that at home though, if properly done tight there is no problem.
Unfortnately the water pressure on the flusher cant push the pressure relief valve enough to open, either direction flushing, that is why that o'ring always gets built up with salt which will cause it to leak.....eventually (extreme case of neglect) bad enough to spray water into the flywheel "wind" which can evnetually fill the air box with water...which is not good.
Easy fix is to clean the o'ring groove, smear in an epoxy to create a protective film layer, then press a new o'ring into the epoxy and let dry. Then you can use grease to seal the pressure relief cover and it new corrodes again.
The restrictor is something they added since going to the vapor seperator with the enclosed fuel pump, so many are out there still going without the restrictor.
Most of the water gets dumped through the sandwich plate, the fact that they restrict them on your one with the internal fuel pump and the new vapor seperator kit comes with one means it must be better, so go with your idea of restricting the nipple if you want to leave it in or just swap it out to flush, better having the nipple unrestricted when reversing the water flow.
Thanks for your detailed answer. Sorry to asking a bit dumb questions here:
1. The relief valve and the o-ring you are referring to, do you mean the termostat? if not I am not sure what you mean.
2. You say most of the water gets dumped through the sandwich plate, what exactly is the sandwich plate.
Sorry, I am used to do mechanical work on my motorbike, not so much on outboards, so there are a few new words here. My last outboard was actually an Evinrude 6HP, two cylinder, back in middle of the 70's. Most things was a bit simplier then.
The pressure relief is to the left of the thermostat looking from behind, it is where the water can by pass the thermostat at speed, the thermostat's job is just to get it to run hotter at low speeds.
It is the round cover hidden by the oil tank, look down from above to where it bolts onto the block, 99% sure you will see a white line of salt there. Most have a dried salt stream out the bottom, only seen with the oil tank off.
Don't worry about that water exiting, it comes out the bottom of the block, into a void (sandwich plate) and then out into the mid section of the engine. Worth doing if the boat is staying in salt water but not going to be run for a week or more.
The cooling passages around the exhaust cover and cylinders are really well designed, the block won't corrode like a Japanese engine and is hard to block with sandy mud, so flushing your engine is not really that important, but why not do it anyway.
Your engine is the same as 30+ year old engines, they just threw away the carbies and bolted on injectors......then they needed to trickle oil through the crankcase.... but apart from that those 2 stroke saving inventions, the base engine is the same.
04-15-2020 01:46 - edited 04-15-2020 03:13
Thanks again for a good explanaiton.
So far the motor has not been into water, so no salt below the relief valve yet. How often (approx) will the relief valve need to be maintained?
Anyhow, I just don't understand how I can flush both the engine and the lower part when the boat is on the water. The boat will not be taken up other than for winter storage. During summer season it will be in the marina on the water. The only way I can imagine this can be done, is by using a soft bag around the lower part with the motor down, and gradually replacing the salt water with fresh water from a hose. Then run the engine and let it drain into the bag before tilting up. It might be an acceptable solution, just have to find a suitable bag.
My plan was to flush the complete motor when tilted up, but because this is not recommended, that plan failed, so good advices are welcome.
I had never wondered about using the reverse flushing port with the engine tilted up, i doubted it would be a problem but to be sure i wanted to look into it, luckily there was a customer with a 2003 40 Etec that had not been used for a long time.
That model had a 2 piece exhaust megaphone/pipe that can be removed from the sandwich plate (between the powerhead and midsection) but on your model that whole sandwich plate and exhaust becomes one piece but the design is obviously similar to the original 2 piece.
There is absolutely no chance the water from back flushing on the 2 piece exhaust could ever get back into the cylinders....except when there is a gasket fault in that very area that sprays water into the cylinders....which this customer had, so he will be glad i decided to pull it apart to investigate your question.
When i get my phone back i will load pictures to explain it better but as for the pressure relief valve, EVERY SALT WATER ENGINE WILL HAVE ISSUES.
The block is bare aluminium with a soft O ring and a soft plastic cover, installed bone dry at the factory, salt water sits there and cannot be flushed by fresh water (unless enough water pressure to open the valve, not happening) so science would suggest corrosion will build up. Even when removed and cleaned and resealed with really good gasket glue the water still sits and corrodes. I will also have pictures of the Megapoxy film and how well that works to seal the area.
The extreme spraying water example is usually when the build up is so bad it also cracks the plastic valve plate, making the corrosion build faster, but that does take years, the next job i have to do is a 2005 75 Etec, i can see it has been sealed before with the brown glue but salt is still creeping out so i will show that one too.
So to answer your question, i would definitely suggested back flushing when the engine has to stay in the water, although it would be just as good to do it with the engine down, with it tilted up the water pump will be flushed too and left cleaner.
Although i can't see the water pushing past the water pump base plate, so the water tube will probably stay full of salt water and the fresh water will just exit out the usual port down into the mid section.....I think when the fresh water is flushing in the back, with the engine tilted up, to clear the water tube you could crank the engine over...
I believe it would not hurt the wet water pump, that is being back flushed, if you even start and idle for a few seconds but i will keep that opinion to myself.
The back flushing also sprays water into the exhaust water jacket by the nipple on top, so you can imagine that does clear it out good, once again a picture will explain it better.