I posted this yesterday in another section and haven't received any responces so far.
I thought I's try in the "Pros" section.
I'm captbruce, long-time member.
I've been a fishing guide in Key West, Florida for the last 45 years, and have never run anything but Evinrudes.
I'm one of the Last "Two-strokers". A dying breed... I'm 72 yrs old and do most of my maintainence myself. It's not that I'm a "cheap Operator" but COST, is a "Concern"...
This has been a great motor, with it's first problem.
It all started with a chk eng light, and a 17 code "Low voltage on 55v circuit", after 5-6 minutes at idle.
When I removed the black rubber boot off the blue CAP the cavity seemed like it was full of thin, watery oil.
So I replaced the blue CAP, but still got the 17 code.
I peeked up under the Flywheel and spun the motor by hand and could see at least one magnet was missing, so I pulled the F/Wheel and one magnet was stuck to the stator, five had slid over next to each other and all the other came off only using my fingers to remove them. Only 2 magnets were firmly affixed and were removed by tapping on a thin screwdriver and prying them off.
I sent the FW to "Five Star Marine" in Port Richey, Fl for a FW rebuild and when I re-installed it the motor won't start.
It cranks, and seems to fire but the bendix retracks, and "NO START".
My FW key only protrudes out from the Keyway by maybe 1/16", not much but the FW seems to always go on in the same place it came off. I've had the FW "off and on" about 5 times now.
Could my timing be off that much, to not start ??
I did some other work on the engine while the FW was away.
I removed the port side Coil mounting Bracket, and wire brushed it and re-painted, it was starting to rust at the lower end.
All coils are back in place and I checked the ground on all the coils too.
also, but not related to my "code 17" I do think my 'tilt-trim" relay is going bad but I have not changed it yet, but both trim buttons work again if you squeeze the relay.
I also installed a new water pump while I was down.
I changed the engine fuel filter.
I also noticed that with all the working around the boat the port "End Cap" on my SeaStar RAM, is dripping so that's next after the motor is running again
I am NOT opposed to sending it to the shop. They have always been fair with me.
I just so "Old-school", that I thought I'd consult E-Nation and see if you guys could help me.
I will patiently await any replies.
Best wishes to all of E-Nation,
cleaned the face of CPS
Had spark on a timing light on #1 cylinder.
Starting fluid did help it run but only ignited 2-3 cylinders before it died.
What in the flywheel signals the CPS ??
This FW came back with three coats of epoxy on it.
Could to thick of epoxy be interfering with the signal ?
Also, from the side of the CPS it looks like about 3/32" gap
The book says 0.07 in.
but the CPS does not look to be in the center of the base of the flywheel, it looks like the FW could come down another
3/16, but I have it torgued to 150 ft.#.
Is the top of the Cramkshaft boss supposed to be level with the base of the FW nut cavity.
My FW seems to not be flush at the top of the crank.
Could my FW not be on far enough ??