Evinrude E-NATION, for those dedicated to water, power, fishing and fun
Posts: 21
Registered: ‎01-21-2012

How to Save Money and Make a Crawler Harness at Home

A popular bait to troll with on Lake Erie from late spring to early fall is the crawler
harness. You’ll pay upwards of $3.00-$5.00 for some pre-tied crawler harnesses in the
local sporting good stores and bait shops, but you can make them yourself for pennies on
the dollar right in your own home. All that is needed are some beads, hooks, line,
clevises, and little baggies. I’m going to share with you how I build my harnesses, so you
can easily build them too.

This illustration shows how to tie a snell knot. Start by cutting a 5 foot piece of 17-20
pound test monofilament or fluorocarbon line from the spool. I usually cut a dozen at a
time, so the line doesn’t end up all over the house from a playful cat.

When it comes to hooks, they are not all created equal. Buy a good quality hook known
for its sharpness. Your bait shop dealer can help you with that. I like to use a size 2 hook
for my harnesses.

Start by putting the tag end of the line through the eye of the hook, so that the line is
headed down the shank of the hook about a ½ inch long. Then, tightly wrap the line
around the shank, covering that tag end, anywhere from 7-10 turns. Bring the end of the
line back through the eye from the bottom, out through the top, and pull tight.

You can stop at this point if you want to use it as a one hook casting harness, like a
“Weapon”, or you can add another hook to make a two hook trolling harness.

For the two hook harness, add the second hook by putting the tag end of the line through
the eye from the bottom and out through the top of the hook. Slide the hook down the line
until it’s about 4 inches from the other hook. Try to make sure the hooks are facing the
same way and are in line with each other. This will ensure better hook ups when a fish
bites. Wrap the line around the shank 7-10 times and send the tag end of the line through
the eye the same direction; from the bottom out through the top.

It’s time to add the colored beads to your harness. This is the fun part. Most often you’ll
find an 8mm bead used. You can find these in different colors, and in bulk, in many of
the local bait shops around town, or you can go to a craft store to buy them. Some tried
and true colors that you should have in your box are orange, purple, chartreuse, green,
red, blue, silver, gold, pink, and white. There are several other colors available to use, but
this is the basic 10 that will get you started. Creating color patterns is fun and easy. For
instance, purple and chartreuse, purple and orange, purple and white, green and orange,
pink and white, pink and chartreuse, red and gold, green and gold, green and chartreuse,
are all great color combinations that work on Lake Erie and other bodies of water. But,
it’s not the only color patterns that work. Use your imagination and just create something
you think might work. But, make sure to make at least 4 of them, because if it does work,
and you only made one, then you can’t put more out to put more fish in your boat at a
faster pace.

Adding a quick change clevis will make it easy for changing to different blades that you
want to experiment with. Blades are created differently. Colorado blades, which are
round in shape, are for slower moving harnesses and give a loud “thump, thump, thump”
through the water as they spin. Indiana blades are more of a tear drop shaped blade that
allows the spinner to move at a faster pace through the water, giving the “noise” a
different vibration. Willow blades, which are pointy on both ends, and allow you to go
even faster, and are most often used in the heat of summer when the white bass, white
perch, and sheephead are in competition for your baits. Speeding up the presentation
helps to eliminate some of those “junk fish” bites.

Blades come in different sizes too. The most common size for this lake is the #5 and #6
blades. Size is reflected in the number. Unlike hooks, the smaller number is the larger the
hook is, and the larger the number is the smaller the hook is; blades are logical. The #5
blade will be a little smaller than #6. Sometimes switching from one size to the other is
all that it takes to get fish to start biting, so experimenting while you’re on the water is a
wise practice.

When you are satisfied with your work, the tag end of the line needs to be finished off
with a loop/knot or by attaching a barrel swivel. I like to use the loop/knot since it’s free,
and that means one less thing to buy.

Take the tag end of the line and fold it back on itself one time, so there is about 3-4
inches of doubled up line. Holding the double line in your left hand, make an over hand
loop Pinch the connecting point with a thumb and index finger. You now have one big
loop with the tag end being a smaller loop now too.

With the opposite hand, slide your index finger through the big loop (just at the tip) and
turn the loop around one time, so that the connecting point forms a second twist in the
line. Grab the tag end loop with the finger that is already through the big loop, and pull it
through. Then, pull it tight. You now have a finished crawler harness ready to use or to
store for use at a later date.

spinner bag.JPGstorage box.JPG
Storing finished harnesses, without the blades attached, can be done easily in small
Ziploc bags and kept in a deep waterproof box with many slots to keep them organized
by color patterns.

Catching fish on a crawler harness that you created is very satisfying, so enjoy making
your own harnesses and good luck fishing!

Captain Juls can be contacted by email at rngrgal@gmail.com, or by phone at 419-835-
7347. Her website address is www.julswalleyefishingadventures.com

"Fishing is not an escape from life, but often a deeper immersion into it…" –Harry Middleton