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Mate
Posts: 3
Registered: ‎03-13-2018

2008 E-tec 115 issues (I probably caused a number of them myself)

Good morning/afternoon all,

 

Long time reader (via google) first time poster.

 

So I have a number of "minor problems" I was hoping to reach out the brains trust for an idea.

 

i have a 2008 E-tec 115 20" with 110 hours spinning a 13.25 x 17 prop on a 17ft fibreglass half cabin now probably in the region of 1500-1700kg.

 

It maxes out at 5000 rpm @60kph.

 

It seems to idle fine run in all rev ranges smoothly nothing out of the ordinary it just feels like it runs out of puff.

 

the exhaust valve was stuck, I have freed it. (has run since nil observable change).

 

Obvious problem is the engine is not native to the boat, it came off a <500kg ski boat. Problem also is I dont recall what it did on the skiboat I do recall the skiboat e-tec combination was nuts and full throttle would have been a handful (did not attempt).

 

Last motor I had was a 1996 Evinrude v4 90hp which I put on the ski boat which went really nice before I sold it. (yes i brought a skiboat for the motor swapped them and sold the skiboat)

 

The 90 was off my current boat (now with etec) and used to howl whilst maxed out at around 60kph, but boat is much much heavier now.

 

 

I have a problem with availability of 'competent' local evinrude mechanics unfortunately (indexing was news to one of them when I was talking a spare set of spark plugs).

 

So without easy access to the computer can I test the exhaust actuator? i have seen a previous post on here from a while ago saying it was possible to put 12v on to cycle the actuator but not knowing which pins to apply power to I am very hesitant to risk breaking a potentially serviceable part.

can someone please help me with this one a wiring diagram excerpt, image of the inside of one, anything would be extremely helpful. (it can be rotated left and right with the spring returning it to centre).

 

 

next problem, more worried about the above though.

I have a LGC3000 gps receiver even on the ski boat under its one and only test run before i brought it i never had speed,

i still dont,

I disconnected it and connected a garmin 95SV the secondary gauge shows that it has a location and I have speed on the unit but alas still no speed on the etec guages.

If i plug the LGC3000 and garmin into the network at the same time neither will figure out position or speed. (its like there is an disagreement between them?)

if i disable the internal GPS sensor on the Garmin and have the LGC3000 plugged in I get nothing (suspect LGC-3000 is faulty)

 

Aside from that (and thanks if you are still with me) 

sparkplugs were filthy on change, yet to take it for a post service run, please assume rigged and fitted correctly (had a competent evinrude mechanic verify, much video and pictures exchanged on that journey). surely cant be a simple as heavily fouled plugs can it?

 

Intent at present is to fit a 13.25x15 prop and see if i can get the revs that way, but I really really want to know that actuator is good.

 

The last motor was a pretty old 90 it was loud thirsty and had its own 'temprement', but the etec is amazing in terms of lower noise and fuel economy (even if its not running correctly) I just hope to sort it out very last thing i want to do is break it.

 

 

 

Closing thoughts/questions

The skiboat was nuts can you simply retard or limit the power a etec spits out?

Is the small rod end on the throttle roller adjustable if one wanted to retard the engine,  though as i think about it would need to see the TPS value to ensure that someone has messed with it and would still require the software to do this presumably. (please correct if I am way off for thinking).

 

 

Thankyou all for reading, and sticking it out with such a long narrative, thankyou in advance to all those that add comment, and I look forward to working together in figuring out how to get the best out of my rebuilt and etec-repowered boat.

 

Eddy

 

Admiral
Posts: 7,054
Registered: ‎07-14-2011

Re: 2008 E-tec 115 issues (I probably caused a number of them myself)

 

 

The first thing you have to do is change propellers to get the top engine rpm up between 5500 and 6000 to keep from lugging the engine and allow it to run as designed.

 

The second thing to do is purchase the correct factory owners manual for reference and for showing how to take apart and test items.  You can order from   www.outboardbooks.com or your dealer may be of assistance 

 

 

 


"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat";
                    -- Travis McGee, main character in a book series by John D. McDonald 


 



***************

The factory recommends that a properly trained technician service your Johnson or Evinrude outboard motor. Should you elect to perform repairs yourself, use caution, common sense, and observe safety procedures in the vicinity of flammable liquids, around moving parts, near high-temperature components, and working with electrical or ignition systems.

The information offered here is only general in nature and should not be construed as complete factory approved procedures, techniques, or specifications. Always use the proper service manual for your motor, up-to-date service literature, the correct tools, and have an understanding of how to proceed with troubleshooting and repair methods. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with a procedure, a situation, or a technique, enlist the services of a factory trained technician.


Mate
Posts: 3
Registered: ‎03-13-2018

Re: 2008 E-tec 115 issues (I probably caused a number of them myself)

Thanks Bluewater Bill,

 

Will change out the prop as discussed and look into getting a manual this week thanks very much for the link.

 

Do you think it is likely overpropped with a 17 pitch?

 

Hoping I have solved the gauge problem looking at the advice of the previous garmin post in the forum list, my NMEA backbone was set up incorrectly (one terminator).

 

Question remains now can I run two GPS sources or will they argue on the network?

 

Eddy

 

 

Admiral
Posts: 7,054
Registered: ‎07-14-2011

Re: 2008 E-tec 115 issues (I probably caused a number of them myself)

only one gps signal is needed on the network.

 

 

 


"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat";
                    -- Travis McGee, main character in a book series by John D. McDonald 


 



***************

The factory recommends that a properly trained technician service your Johnson or Evinrude outboard motor. Should you elect to perform repairs yourself, use caution, common sense, and observe safety procedures in the vicinity of flammable liquids, around moving parts, near high-temperature components, and working with electrical or ignition systems.

The information offered here is only general in nature and should not be construed as complete factory approved procedures, techniques, or specifications. Always use the proper service manual for your motor, up-to-date service literature, the correct tools, and have an understanding of how to proceed with troubleshooting and repair methods. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with a procedure, a situation, or a technique, enlist the services of a factory trained technician.


Captain
Posts: 174
Registered: ‎09-12-2016

Re: 2008 E-tec 115 issues (I probably caused a number of them myself)


@eddywrote:

Thanks Bluewater Bill,

 

Will change out the prop as discussed and look into getting a manual this week thanks very much for the link.

 

Do you think it is likely overpropped with a 17 pitch?

 

Hoping I have solved the gauge problem looking at the advice of the previous garmin post in the forum list, my NMEA backbone was set up incorrectly (one terminator).

 

Question remains now can I run two GPS sources or will they argue on the network?

 

Eddy

 

 


You are way overpropped. A 13 inch prop would get you to the minimum rpm, a 12 would be better. 

Mate
Posts: 3
Registered: ‎03-13-2018

Re: 2008 E-tec 115 issues (I probably caused a number of them myself)

Good morning/evening all,

 

Thanks so very much for the advice, so grossly overestimated hull weight (duh 1500-1600~ inc trailer so hulls perhaps about 1100-1200kg).

 

2 runs completed;

 

Original prop 13 1/4 x 17 5200rpm @ 60kph (only major change was a brand new set of plugs) gained 200rpm. 40lph has been observed previously.

 

Tested 13-3/4 x 15" prop I was very kindly loaned by a dealer a hour or so away.

5750 rpm @ 56kph (lost 4kph top speed) fuel usage did not record, it could not have been but i swear it was under 30lph at WOT. holeshot to the plane was something else too, very nice, very different to the previous prop Smiley Happy

 

alloy prop,  not the prettiest of props but very thankful even to have access to a loner prop.

IMG_20180325_090728.jpg

 

 

So is it fair to say the 15 is the go?

Plan is to order a stainless in 13 3/4 x 15.

 

Also I had a 13 pitch to test but figured at 5750rpm for the 15 it was in within tolerance. I still have the option, should I still test the 13?

 

 

There is still an issue with my gauges, I have a garmin 95sv, the network bus backbone is now set up correctly and is using the garmin as a source, the ETEC  smart guages have the lat, long, but the speed has three blinking dashed lines.

 

Thanks and regards,

 

Eddy

 

 

 

 

Admiral
Posts: 7,054
Registered: ‎07-14-2011

Re: 2008 E-tec 115 issues (I probably caused a number of them myself)

 

 

From your information, a 15" would be advisable. You may even get more performance with it due to a new one being in much better shape than the used one in the picture.  It may even help to raise the motor one hole at a time for more speed and a touch more rpm. That will be trial and error.

 

 

 


"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat";
                    -- Travis McGee, main character in a book series by John D. McDonald 


 



***************

The factory recommends that a properly trained technician service your Johnson or Evinrude outboard motor. Should you elect to perform repairs yourself, use caution, common sense, and observe safety procedures in the vicinity of flammable liquids, around moving parts, near high-temperature components, and working with electrical or ignition systems.

The information offered here is only general in nature and should not be construed as complete factory approved procedures, techniques, or specifications. Always use the proper service manual for your motor, up-to-date service literature, the correct tools, and have an understanding of how to proceed with troubleshooting and repair methods. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with a procedure, a situation, or a technique, enlist the services of a factory trained technician.