Model E150DSLABG 2016, in service as of Jan 2017 - 150hrs currently. Analog gauges with system check only. 1998 18' Flats boat. Always use ethanol free gas and always use xd100 -setup for xd50 as a recommendation from the dealer.
So I started having this issue around 115 hrs. I will run from spot to spot, shut down, tilt up and pole/troll for minutes or hours. About once a trip (couple/few trips a week) I will go to start and ignition just pops or huffs then nothing but starter crank. Sometimes the starter will stop cranking 2 or 3 seconds in, sometimes you can get to like 5 or 6 seconds. No lights on the system check gauges.
Now if I feel my fuel bulb it is soft. If I pump it back up the motor will then eventually fire sometimes its a bit of work, sometimes right away.
Dealer is quite busy and I am on a hiatus from my contract right now where I'm A.) either working on my boat or B.) using it. Talked to them about it and we agree its going to be difficult to get them to duplicate the issue so they are going to need the boat for a bit.
I replaced the water separator before the bulb, the line from that filter, the bulb and the water separator on the engine. Found zero water /sediment in either.
I will admit that shutdown will sometimes occur in gear due to water depth or a school of fish surprising me. I don't feel that this is OK but it does happen occasionally.
Fuel line from the tank up forward to the filter aft is fairly new (2 years) and the tank is huge (35gal) and is rarely below half full.
Tank was completely emptied and cleaned out in 2015 and nothing but rec90 has been used since.
I use 2+4 every 3rd or 4th tank and brp injector cleaner every 50hrs. Always keep the tank topped of when not in use.
I did read about this happening before but it seemed like it was related to the parts I already replaced, mainly bulb or fuel line leaks. Open to any and all advice.
Thanks in advance for any comments!
Your problem appears to be fuel related combined with underhood temperatures that rise when the motor is turned off and the engine heat is trapped inside the motor cover.
The boat's fuel system should be tested for vacuum at all rpm and with a clear hose, inspected for bubbles in the line. It that checks out OK, then possibly a lighter spring in the pressure relief valve can lower the underhood temperatures somewhat for easier starting.
A fuel primer bulb will soften after running the motor for a while, as inside of the fuel hose becomes a vacuum as the lift pump is drawing fuel from the gas tank after initially priming the fuel system with the squeeze ball.
"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat";
-- Travis McGee, main character in a book series by John D. McDonald
The factory recommends that a properly trained technician service your Johnson or Evinrude outboard motor. Should you elect to perform repairs yourself, use caution, common sense, and observe safety procedures in the vicinity of flammable liquids, around moving parts, near high-temperature components, and working with electrical or ignition systems.
The information offered here is only general in nature and should not be construed as complete factory approved procedures, techniques, or specifications. Always use the proper service manual for your motor, up-to-date service literature, the correct tools, and have an understanding of how to proceed with troubleshooting and repair methods. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with a procedure, a situation, or a technique, enlist the services of a factory trained technician.
So to follow up on this I'm at around 200hrs at this point and I no longer run the boat hard and then just shut down and tilt up. I am running it for approx 2 min before shut down on the ongoing basis. Have not run into this issue again since I have started this method of using the boat.
Common theory seems to be high heat transfer boils fuel and creates a vapor lock. Pumping the bulb and cranking for a significant period of time will start the engine if you run into this. thanks for the help. - Kevin