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Captain
Posts: 229
Registered: ‎08-11-2011

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

You bought a new battery. What size and CCA? 

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Captain
Posts: 807
Registered: ‎08-20-2017

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

Try clamping/restricting your fuel return hose to get fuel pressure up and see if it starts cold then. With no choke on that engine the injectors give a longer fuel pulse at cold startup.
The specs in the book may be wrong, as I have always seen 28-35 psi on fuel pressure tests. Yes, it may start on 22 psi with new injectors that are flowing 100%. Your injectors may be worn or partially clogged and flowing enough to run but not enough for cold start. The 90 hp engine has to spin about 400 rpm during cranking to develop 55 volts for the injectors to build a full pressure spray.
Even if everything was "within specs", a combination of injector flow, fuel pressure, and system voltage all on the lower end of specs could make an engine hard to start.
Also both old fuel or fresh high octane fuel is harder to "light off", start combustion than fresh low octane fuel.
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Skipper
Posts: 15
Registered: ‎04-22-2020

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

[ Edited ]

new update,

injectors nozzles taken apart, i didnt know there is filter under them, (ex owner told me to chech that, which is good friend of mine), and guess what, there was some old fine rubber dust under filter.

nozzles opens about 0.25mm (0.0098") which seems to be correct as i found on various forums. can you comfirm 0.25 is ok?

Im not sure can thes cause my starting troubles, but i clean them up, this does not look to bad to engine not to start?

this is all 3 of them before cleaning

 

cleaned

 

filters, only one was dirty

 

and nozzle opens this much

https://i.imgur.com/GKrtkZ5.mp4

 

gallery link

https://imgur.com/a/B1TXCtU

 

 

Again back to repair manual, it said that pressure should be between 20-30psi, 

i found most of e-tecs run 22psi

but as rickmcd53 said, may be various of reasons why mine want start, so i streched a spring inside pressure regulator and test it again and its 3 bar now, 45psi, i guess i will to lower that down to 35psi, test and get everything back.

I think little bit higher pressure cant make any damage to fuel injectors, only fuel consumption will be little bit bigger.?

 

Battery is brand new (ok now is 2 months old) classic acid battery 60Ah, starting current 530A, i think that should be enough since i buy boat with smaller battery and engine start good , but again, maybe starter is little bit worn, maybe wires, maybe fuel pump gives little bit less pressure, maybe injector filters where little bit dirty...
and everything of little bit makes engine cant start.
Now everathing is cleaned, baterry fully charged, i will give it a try.

 

Do you really thing this much dirt inside injectors could cause engine not to start?
Did anyone on forum check fuel pressure, what are numbers?
My google results are 22-25psi on all results i found, and on 10psi it want start.

 

thanks guys, will post feedback here

 

 

Highlighted
Captain
Posts: 229
Registered: ‎08-11-2011

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

Your battery is to small. 640CCA minimum.

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Skipper
Posts: 15
Registered: ‎04-22-2020

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

[ Edited ]

Ok, i will go to store and buy new battery,
As i said i bought this battery because i had  54ah 450 cranking Amps battery and engine started with no probblem.

 

 

And i just think i made a mistake, i figuire it right now

I made a pressure test with fuel pump anttached to 12V on bench, and pump is working on 55V DC sistem when engine is running?

If it is attached to 55V sistem, that means lover values on 12v than on 55 volts, my fuel pressure should be more than 22psi, and i set it to 45psi now, that means it would be at least 60psi?

da*n Smiley Sad
can you confirm that it works on 55VDC?

by repair manual injectors, pump and coils are attached to 55 volt dc?

 

 

 

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Captain
Posts: 229
Registered: ‎08-11-2011

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

[ Edited ]

Pump runs on 12 volt. The 55 volt from stator is brought down to 12 volt by EMM for pump only, using pulsewidth modulation through ground wire.

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Skipper
Posts: 15
Registered: ‎04-22-2020

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

[ Edited ]

oh, i get it, its clear now, thanks.

thats it then, i will install VST as it is with streched spring in FPR.

 

 

Highlighted
Captain
Posts: 229
Registered: ‎08-11-2011

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

[ Edited ]

Make sure nozzel goes back in the same injector and cylinder, if you dismantled all at the same time. They are matched to each injector and cylinder in the EMM.

 

Not sure if it's a good idea to stretch the fuel pressure valve spring. Low pressure could be due to small battery if cranking only or faulty fuel pressure gauge.

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Skipper
Posts: 15
Registered: ‎04-22-2020

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

Thanks for advice, i assumed that i have to return nozzles to mached injectors, and yes all injectors are marked, and will return them to correct cylinder.

 

Pump was connected to 220VAC to 12VDC 30 amps.
So i guess it was enoug power.

engine is 12 years old, so spring inside FPR is little bit softer for sure, and rbber o ring in FPR is for sure little bit worn, so i guess this should be fine now.

i will post results back as soon as i get all parts back on engine.

 

thanks for advice

 

 

 

Highlighted
Admiral
Posts: 8,814
Registered: ‎07-14-2011

Re: Etec 90hp 2008 crank but want start

[ Edited ]

 

Those black deposits inside the injectors are likely from deteriorating fuel lines. It would be recommended to inspect or better yet, replace the all the "rubber" fuel lines including the ones on the motor, change the filter and flush out the VST and fuel rails.

 

 

 


"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat";
                    -- Travis McGee, main character in a book series by John D. McDonald 


 



***************

The factory recommends that a properly trained technician service your Johnson or Evinrude outboard motor. Should you elect to perform repairs yourself, use caution, common sense, and observe safety procedures in the vicinity of flammable liquids, around moving parts, near high-temperature components, and working with electrical or ignition systems.

The information offered here is only general in nature and should not be construed as complete factory approved procedures, techniques, or specifications. Always use the proper service manual for your motor, up-to-date service literature, the correct tools, and have an understanding of how to proceed with troubleshooting and repair methods. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with a procedure, a situation, or a technique, enlist the services of a factory trained technician.