05-02-2016 06:04 - edited 05-03-2016 02:35
There have been many reports of stuck exhaust vales on V4 models which is an expensive replacement as it is not servicable on later models.
Latest engines now have a grease nipple fitted to lubricate the shaft but others have no lube and there is not even a bush or bearing where the shaft comes through the housing so a stuck unit is a common problem. A friend of mine just had stuck valves on both of his 115's and it cost him $4000 each to replace (Parts very expensive here)
If your engine is out of warranty, like mine (2012), I found this DIY fix which can be done on models from 2009 from a dealer in Australia. All owners should do it.
If you have a new engine under warranty it may not have a grease nipple on it so if you intend keeping it after warranty (3 yrs from purchace) I recommended you still have this done.
You can easily hand drill and fit a grease nipple as follows:
"Nipple can only be added to the newer style , around 2009-10, with a counter weight on the starboard side. These valves and shaft are not removable, unlike the earlier version.
Remove side covers. Remove counter weight. Drill a small hole 3 mm at 45 degrees straight through shaft. Stop as soon as the drill are through the shaft. Drill a 4.5 mm hole in aluminum until you hit the shaft. Tap 6 mm thread, fit 6 mm nipple. Some times it helps to slightly countersink the beginning of hole to get good contact for nipple.
In the future, prevent sticking by removing the brass nipple (Blind) above the shaft, fitted on the black painted motor. Aft.
There is another exhaust nipple which sends exhaust pressure to the EMM on the opposite side above actuator. A hose is attached to it. Remove hose and fitting. In both holes spray engine tuner, clean exhaust fitting and reassemble.
There is also a restrictor in the same hose next to where the hose attaches to the EMM. To remove the restrictor spray lube in top of hose and gently squeeze the restrictor with pliers on the external of hose to it pops out. Its very small and has a very small hole which blocks easily."
I'm going to get mine done ASAP.
Use Cobolt or Carbide drill bits.
Simple fix to avoid a major problem
05-05-2016 02:49 - edited 05-05-2016 02:51
OK good news. My exhaust valve was not stuck in spite of three years of slow trolling and slow cruising and I was over-propped.
Did mine yesterday.
Bought 3X3mm, 1X4.5mm cobalt drill bits, 6mm grease nipple, and a 6mm thread tap.
Total cost $10.00. Time about an hour. Needed extra hands to remove and replace side covers.
I was amazed at how easily the cobalt bits drilled through the stainless shaft.
I'm not a mechanic and the only thing I have ever done on an outboard was change plugs and props.
We no longer have an E-TEC dealer in our area and I'm on a farm 120 miles from the nearest engineering shop.
DIY was risky. Something as simple as a broken drill bit could have ruined everything. Don't try it with cheap drill bits - only Cobolt or Carbide.
I will now grease it as part of my annual service, give it a short run at 5000rpm every trip to open the valve, and I managed to get Carbon Guard to treat enough fuel for the next year.
I STRONGLY RECOMMEND all owners check their engines - and have this simple mod done ASAP.
Apparently, all V4 engines after 2008 have this same design which cannot be serviced and do not have a grease nipple to lube and prevent the shaft from seizing in the housing.
A pal of mine has twin 115s on his boat and both had stuck exhaust valves. Cost $4,000 per engine!!!!!
Now it's time for Evinrude to come to the party. I think the Exhaust Valve is only on V4 engines - but that needs to be confirmed. This is an Evinrude design problem. They need to re-call all engines with this design from 2009 up to the latest models.
IMPORTANT: Do NOT remove exhaust valves
they are not serviceable.
Just had a second exhaust valve stuck failure on my 2011 ETEC 130. It failed 2 months after brand new, but only intermittantly. The Australian forum helped me find the problem and it had the midsection replaced by Kenai BRP dealer in 2012. The ETEC 130 broke a crankshaft in June 2016 and the exhaust valve was also stuck again when the dealer opened up the 130. Only 285 hours and it is now SCRAP. You are right that BRP should recall all affected motors.