My 1998 Evinrude 115 Model E115GLECM turns over fine but won't start. So far I've eliminated the kill switch and the coils which test OK on a meter. Next to troubleshoot, I believe, are the PowerPack and Stator.
Is there a way to bench test the PowerPack?
I've seen some YouTubes on testing the stator but would like to know what the meter should read for the various tests.
Thanks for any help/advice!
09-03-2017 07:43 - edited 09-16-2017 09:42
The power pack testing has to be done on the motor. All the inputs are tested and using a peak-reading voltmeter using a DVA meter or adapter with the outputs compared to the service manual specs. The overall procedure is basically a process of elimination. There is also a special tool for testing the electric eye sensor but the tool costs more than the part replacement.
Old time techs call this GOZINTA- CUMOUTA testing -- what data goes into the pack and what data comes out of the pack.
The stator is tested by checking the resistance. On that type of engine, it is best to remove the stator even if it tests good and inspect it for melted plastic insulation from the coils wound on it. You may even find pools of melted plastic underneath it puddled on the engine block due to electrical problems causing it reach very high temperatures.
"There is never just one thing wrong with a boat";
-- Travis McGee, main character in a book series by John D. McDonald
The factory recommends that a properly trained technician service your Johnson or Evinrude outboard motor. Should you elect to perform repairs yourself, use caution, common sense, and observe safety procedures in the vicinity of flammable liquids, around moving parts, near high-temperature components, and working with electrical or ignition systems.
The information offered here is only general in nature and should not be construed as complete factory approved procedures, techniques, or specifications. Always use the proper service manual for your motor, up-to-date service literature, the correct tools, and have an understanding of how to proceed with troubleshooting and repair methods. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with a procedure, a situation, or a technique, enlist the services of a factory trained technician.
My first step would be to verify charge coils and power input section of the powerpack. Easily done by disconnecting kill lead from pack to eliminate kill switch and wiring. Crank engine and kill wire from pack should read 280-320V D.C.
If it doesn't, disconnect the charge coils from pack and crank engine reading A.C. voltage from stator charge coils. Should be right up there in voltage. If not - charge coil(s) defective. If yes - defective powerpack.
If the power side checks out, the problem lies in the timer base trigger coil circuitry. People always used what was referred to as a peak reading voltmeter to check trigger coil output. It should be a short voltage blip rising up to around 1/2 volts each time the trigger magnet pole passes the coils. You could easily verify with an oscilloscope.
Don't rule out the optical sensor this recieves the pulses from the timing disk and tells the pack when to fire. If your kill switch has the lanyard that slips over the key the motor will fire whether the lanyard is attached or not.