So i picked up a 20ft Grady white on a really nice trade, I have been looking to get into this type of boat for a while so am excited about it.
The boat came powered with a 1998 Evinrude 175hp Ficht motor. (I know there is a lot of discussion on this motor, and it would not have been my first pick, BUT the trade was such a good one that even if I have to repower I am happy.)
The motor was running and did a good job of planing the boat with a wot of 42-43mph and cruising at approximately 4000 rpm and 30 mph.
I made this trade with an expectation that i will possibly want to repower in the near future to a 150-200 hp newer model etec.
With that said, I wouldn't mind getting some use out of this engine if it still has life in it.
Here is what I have done as preventative maintanence so far.
1) Previous Owner had dumped TCW-3 in the oil reservoir, I dumped that and filled up with XD 100. I followed procedure after to purge system of any air bubbles.
2) Boat had a hodgepodge of spark plugs (some champions and some NGK's) I have switched all the plugs to the recommended champion XC12PEPB
3) I have indexed the plugs (per directions on here) to line up with the pins in the cylinder heads.
4) I have followed procedure to decarb motor using OMC engine tuner, In addition motor will only use Non Ethanol gas (as i have it available locally) and will use marine stabil in the tank.
5) Have replaced old gear lube with fresh full synthetic gear lube.
I just finished all of the above procedures, and will be going out this weekend to let her run, and see what sort of improvements the above have given.
Are there any preventative maint procedures that I am overlooking? Are all of the above helpful to the Ficht Motors?
Should i purchase one of the Evinrude / Ficht USB Diagnostic kits available on ebay to check engine performance? Engine is not currently throwing any errors etc when starting and running. Seems to be performing well. What else would the diagnostic kit tell me? Do the kits fit the 98 Ficht 175hp motors? I wonder if they do because they all say 1999 -
Any help or wisdom you can spare me would be appreciated.
04-19-2019 10:18 - edited 04-19-2019 10:18
Here is a pic of this new to me boat, I'm looking forward to some good times on it.
Have done a complete rewire of the boat, and just finished re-doing the teak. (looks way better than in this pic)
Am hoping for good times with her in the future..
Well I have the same OB to model year & HP on the 21 Pro-Line cuddly I picked up in a similar deal as you - meaning I too know that someday I'll upgrade. People tell me these were the worst years, but the corally to that is - if they've stayed running this long - they could be all right.
Besides what you did I'd make sure she was propped right to deliver max RPMs, as close to 5,500 as you can, then cruise her around 4,200 for best efficiency. I'd also do a decarb with Bomb/OMC 'Engine Tuner' to be sure she's clean inside. Maybe add a Racor fuel/water separator if already not equipped.
If /when the tank is low, throw in some Bomb/OMC 'Carbon Guard' for good measure mid-season. I myself add it every fill up as I tend to do some trolling and have more than a few 'headway speeds only' mooring areas to get through before I hit the best fishing spots or to head out offshore. Make sure you replace the thermostats and do a full water pump service.
Nice boat! Had a GW 225G model dual-console with the full transom once and it was a cool boat. Only bought the cuddy so me & my youngest daughter could sleep aboard her - she loves it! Camping without the dirt ...
Keep in touch!
Sorry, saw where you added you already ran engine tuner through it.
S/W diagnostic kit. You need the really older one that runs off a floppy disk. The newer (and mostly pirated) ones being sold that are on a CD won't read, display or print the engine history, temps and hours correctly. I had to borrow an older laptop from a computer geek friend who had one w/ a floppy disk drive slot and a USB connector.